Why Tasting Matters
Most people buy olive oil the way they buy petrol — grab the nearest bottle and move on. That's understandable, but it means missing out. A well-made extra virgin olive oil has as much complexity as a good wine, and spending two minutes tasting before you buy can save you from flat, rancid, or adulterated oils.
Professional tasters use standardised blue glasses to eliminate colour bias, but at home you can learn plenty with just a small cup and your senses.
The Three Steps
1. Smell
Pour a tablespoon of oil into a small glass. Cup it in your hands to warm it slightly, then bring it to your nose. Good oil should smell fresh — think cut grass, green tomato, artichoke, or ripe fruit. If it smells like crayons, wet cardboard, or nothing at all, that's a warning sign.
2. Taste
Take a small sip and let it spread across your tongue. Draw in a little air through your teeth (yes, it sounds odd). You're looking for three things:
- Fruitiness: The overall flavour intensity. Can be green-fruity (herbal, grassy) or ripe-fruity (buttery, mild).
- Bitterness: A positive attribute in olive oil. It means the oil contains polyphenols, which are antioxidants. Mild to moderate bitterness is desirable.
- Pungency: That peppery kick in the back of your throat. The stronger the pungency, the fresher and more robust the oil.
3. Feel
Pay attention to the texture. Quality oil should feel clean and slightly viscous without being greasy or waxy. A thin, watery texture often indicates over-refined or diluted oil.
Common Defects to Watch For
These are the flavours and smells that indicate something went wrong during production or storage:
- Rancid: Smells like old nuts or dried paint. The most common defect, caused by oxidation from heat, light, or age.
- Fusty: A fermented, sweaty smell that happens when olives sit in piles too long before pressing.
- Musty: Damp, mouldy aroma from olives stored in humid conditions.
- Winey: Vinegary or alcoholic notes from excessive fermentation.
If an oil has any of these defects, it cannot legally be called "extra virgin" — though enforcement is inconsistent, which is why tasting matters.
Reading the Label
Labels can be misleading, but a few details are genuinely useful:
- Harvest date: More important than the best-before date. Look for oil from the most recent harvest (typically October–December).
- "Cold-pressed" or "cold-extracted": Means the oil was produced below 27°C, preserving flavour and nutrients.
- Origin: "Product of Italy" is weaker than a specific region or estate name. The more specific, the better.
- Olive variety: Named varieties (Coratina, Frantoio, Nocellara) usually indicate a producer who cares about their oil.
- DOP/IGP certification: Protected designation of origin. Not essential, but a solid indicator of regulated quality.
Storing Your Oil
Olive oil has three enemies: light, heat, and oxygen. Store it in a cool, dark cupboard — never on the windowsill or next to the hob. Use it within a few months of opening. If you buy a large tin, decant some into a smaller bottle for daily use and keep the tin sealed.
Dark glass bottles and tins are better than clear glass. If your oil came in clear glass, wrap the bottle in foil or keep it in a cupboard.
Matching Oil to Food
Think of olive oil intensity the way you'd think of wine pairing:
- Delicate oils (Ligurian Taggiasca, Sicilian Nocellara): raw fish, steamed vegetables, mild cheeses.
- Medium oils (Tuscan Frantoio blends): salads, pasta, grilled chicken, soft bread.
- Robust oils (Pugliese Coratina, Moraiolo): red meat, hearty soups, bean dishes, strong-flavoured greens.
The simplest test: drizzle a little oil on warm bread. If you enjoy eating it on its own, it's a good oil.